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Assembly: Body Stage 3

    In this stage, you’ll be working a lot with The MakerBot Replicator’s MightyBoard. It’s a good idea to get acquainted with it before going further.

    Interface Board x 1

    Take out the interface board. Remove the dummy SD card and the small black plastic piece covering the interface connection. 

    Assembled Ribbon Cable x 1

    Plug the interface cable into the interface board.

    Orient the Replicator as shown and find the two holes for the interface board at the lower right of the frame.

    Nylon 4-40 Bolt x 2

    O-Ring Spacer x 2

    Add two nylon bolts into the two holes at the end of the long rectangular opening. The bolts should point in from the outside of the frame. Add the O-ring spacers onto the two bolts.

    Silicone Keypad x 1

    Add the silicone keypad to the Replicator frame. It will rest there for the moment. Make sure the “M” is right side up, as shown.

    Run the interface cable down through the rectangular hole under the silicone keypad.

    The SD card reader on the interface board protrudes slightly from the edge of the board. Slide the board into the SD card slot at the side of the Replicator before you push the rest of the interface board forward and fit the LCD screen into the rectangular opening at the front.

    Make sure that the bolts you already inserted line up with the holes in the interface board.

    Nylon 4-40 Bolts x 4

    Add four nylon bolts to the holes at the corners of the keypad, with the boltheads on the outside of the machine.

    Nylon 6/6 Hex Nut x 6

    Add the six nylon nuts onto the bolts and tighten them all down. Use a 3/32 hex wrench.

    Flip the Replicator over to get access to the electronics bay.

    Note the PCB supports sticking out from the plate. Before you install the MightyBoard, note the correct orientation of the ports when the MightyBoard is properly installed.

    MP2879

    MightyBoard Completed x 1 

    Insert the MightyBoard by lining the supports up with their respective holes on the back plate. Tilt the board to make sure the ports go into their holes in the back panel.

    You may find that you need to realign some of the PCB supports. Simply take a look at where they need to go, remove the MightyBoard, and then push the supports into alignment.

    Once you have made sure that the five PCB supports are lined up with the five PCB holes, push the MightyBoard onto the PCB supports. Try not to push on the surface of the PCB itself.

    Make sure all 5 PCB supports get snapped in.

    Route the interface cable through the hole in the support bracket. Plug in the interface cable into the MightyBoard. You will need to twist the cable 180 degrees for it to connect properly.

    Find the fan for the MightyBoard, and cut the leads to approximately 6 inches.

    Strip the ends of the two wires and separate about half an inch of the two leads.

    Twist the frayed wire ends together to make two thicker wires and insert the leads into the fan terminals. The red lead goes into the “+” terminal. The black lead goes into the “-” terminal.

    Fasten the leads by tightening down the screws on the terminals. Make sure to give a little tug on each lead to ensure that there’s a solid connection.

    Motor Wiring Harness 12″ x 1

    Take a 12 inch wire harness, and snip off the zip tie. 

    Twist the motor wire as shown. Connect one end to the Z-axis motor.

    Connect the other end to the Z-axis motor port on the MightyBoard. Make sure the “teeth” of the motor wire are facing down and will get grabbed by the black plastic spikes on the MightyBoard.

    Plug the Y-axis motor connector into the Y-axis motor.

    Bring the Y-axis motor connector through the bottom of The MakerBot Replicator, around the fan, and under the PCB.

    Plug the motor wire into the Y-axis port on the MightyBoard. Again, make sure the teeth of the motor wire connector are facing the right way.

    Unplug the Y-axis motor wire from the motor. Twist the motor wire, plug it back into the Y-axis motor, and then route it through the cable clips.

    Pushing the cables into the cable clips can prove challenging. Take your time and try not to get frustrated. If a cable clip comes off, get a new one. Do not try to stick it the old one back on because the adhesive will not work.

    Motor Wiring Harness 42″ x 1

    Tape one end of the wire harness to the end of the power screwdriver. Stretch the two ends out between your outstretched arms. Point the taped end of the screwdriver towards your other hand, and let the power screwdriver twist the cable for you. 

    Stretch the twisted cable out between your hands and slide the entire length of cable back and forth against the edge of your desk. This will help set the wires in a twist.

    Connect  the 42” motor wire harness to the X-axis motor on the gantry.

    Run the motor cable up around the motor, and into the slot in the Y-axis primary.

    Endstop Cable x 1

    Take out an endstop cable. Run the endstop cable through the rectangular hole on the side of the Y axis primary.

    Plug it into the endstop on the Y axis primary and then push it into the slot with the motor cable.

     

    Bring the wires through the cable clip above. Make sure the wires come forward out of the cable clip, toward the right front corner of The Replicator.

     

    The gantry needs to be able to move freely, so make sure there’s some slack.

    After you’ve inserted the cables into the first cable clip, zip-tie the two cables together, with the 42” harness on top and the zip tie facing up, as shown. Then snip the lead off the zip tie.

    Continue routing the  cables through the cable clips in the right front corner of the machine. Don’t forget to snap the cable clips closed once the wire is inside.

    Route the two cables through the right front hole in the bottom panel of The MakerBot Replicator and then  through the hole in the electronics bracket.

    Route the x-axis motor wire underneath the MightyBoard, inside the PCB supports, and plug it into the X-axis motor connection on the MightyBoard. As always, make sure the teeth are facing the right way. 

    Plug the endstop cable into the x-max port on the MightyBoard.

    Endstop Cable x 1

    Take an endstop cable and plug it into the Z-axis endstop. Route it up and through the cable clips along the top of the frame. Make sure the endstop cable stays behind the X-axis rod.

    Continue routing the endstop cable through the top cable clips.

    Bring the endstop cable out of the corner. Then route it back into the frame in front of the X-axis rod. Pull the end of the cable until the loop disappears.

    Route it through the cable clips in the back left corner.

    Endstop Cable x 1

    Add the last endstop cable to the Y-axis endstop. Route it through the cable clips alongside the Z-axis endstop cable.

    Pass both endstop cables through the hole at the lower back left corner of the Replicator. The Z-axis endstop cable will be the shorter of the two endstop cables.

    Take the Z-axis endstop cable and route it through the cable clip on the underside of the machine.

    Plug the Z-axis endstop cable into the Z-axis min port on the MightyBoard. Plug the Y-axis endstop cable into the Y-axis max port on the MightyBoard.

     

    Take the Y-axis endstop cable and make a  loop. Put the loop into the cable clip along with the Z-axis endstop cable.

    Note: The cable clip will not close. This is fine. 

    LED Strip x 1

    Grab the LED strip.

    Flip the machine upside down and turn it so that the front is facing you. 

    Before removing the adhesive cover, orient the strip so that it is centered on the wood and the leads are at the front left corner of The MakerBot Replicator.

    Remove the adhesive cover on the LED strip and place the strip on the underside of the top frame, almost under the X-axis rod. Push down again on the LED strip to make sure the adhesive sticks. 

    Route the LED cable leads above the Y-axis belt and through the cable clip. Route it down through the cable clips in the front left corner and through the hole on the bottom plate, and then flip The MakerBot Replicator over again.

    Route the LED cable through the cable clip against the front panel and the hole in the support bracket. Plug it into the RGB LED strip port on the MightyBoard.

    Turn The Replicator right side up and move the Z-stage halfway up the Z-rods.

    MP02560 HBP Harness x 1

    Route the HBP harness through the rectangular hole in the bottom of the Z-stage and through the hole on the bottom of The MakerBot Replicator.

    Here’s what it looks like on the other side.

     

    Strip the ends of the red and black leads on the HBP wire. As before, twist the exposed ends of the wires to make them cohere.

    Plug the large HBP connector into the “HBP Therm” port.

    Plug the black and red leads into the terminals labeled BP Heat. Red goes into the terminal over the letters “BP,” and black goes into the terminal over the word “Heat.” Tug on the leads to make sure they’re secure. 

    Turn The MakerBot Replicator upright and lower the Z-stage.

    Take out the Stepstruder assembly and unwrap the wires. Remove the M3x10 bolts from the Stepstruder assembly. 

    Mount the Stepstruder assembly onto the extruder carriage. Take the two M3x10 bolts you just removed and bolt the Stepstruder onto the extruder carriage.

    Bring the wires from the Stepstruder over the back of The MakerBot Replicator.

    0.5″ Pre-Cut Wire Wrapping x 1

    Grab the wire wrapping. Check to see which end is cleaner; that’s the end that will be closest to the Stepstruder assembly. 

    Insert all of the extruder wiring into the wire wrapping.

    Zip Tie x 1

    Once the wrapping is all around the Stepstruder wiring, bring the end of the wrapper close to the top of the Stepstruder and put a zip tie around the wiring, the wrapping, and the clear ABP flange on the bolt in front of it.

    Tighten the zip tie, making sure that the long piece of the zip tie extends towards the back. Use a zip tie gun to really tighten down the zip tie. Then use it to cut the tie.

    Caution: When the zip tie gun cuts the zip tie, it shoots the tie out behind it at high speed. Seriously. Be careful.

    Move the extruder carriage all the way to the front left corner of the 3D printer and hold it there. Still holding the Stepstruder at the front left corner, bring the wires in the wire wrapping to the cable clip.

    Insert the wiring bundle into the clip. There shouldn’t be much slack, but there shouldn’t be any tension on the cable either. Make sure to close the clip by sliding the clamp into the clamp channel.

    Route the wiring bundle through the next cable clip. Be sure to close the cable clip. Continue routing the wiring through the cable clips. 

    Separate the left and the right bundles of extruder wires.

    Remove the tape from the left bundle of wires and locate the cartridge heater leads. They’re white. Strip them!

    Plug the white leads into the “Heat” terminals as shown and turn the screws to fasten them. It doesn’t matter which wire goes into which terminal here, but make sure there’s a solid connection by giving a slight tug on the leads. 

    Take the red and black fan leads from the left extruder and snip the connector as close as possible to the end. Strip the leads. Then separate about a half inch of the two leads.

    These go right next to the cartridge heater leads. Plug the red lead into the “+” terminal and the black lead into the “-” terminal and turn the screws to fasten them. Give a slight tug to ensure that they’re fastened down securely. 

    Take the thermocouple leads from the left group of cables, and snip off half of the metal leads.

    Insert the thermocouple leads into the bank of terminals near the Z-motor. The yellow lead goes into Y2 and the red lead goes into R2.

    Take the left-side stepstruder cable and plug it into the B-Stepper port on the MightyBoard. Don’t forget to orient the teeth properly!

    Remove the tape from the right bundle of wires and locate the cartridge heater leads. They’re white. Strip them! 

    Plug the white leads into the “Heat” terminals as in the photo. It doesn’t matter which wire goes into which terminal here, but once you’ve fastened them down make sure there’s a solid connection by giving a slight tug on the leads. 

    Take the black and red fan leads from the right extruder and snip the connector as close as possible to the end.

    Strip the leads. Separate about half an inch of the two leads.

    Plug the red lead into the “+” terminal and the black lead into the “-” terminal right next to the right extruder’s cartridge heater leads. Give a slight tug to ensure they’re secure.

    Take the thermocouple leads from the left group of cables, and snip off half of the metal leads. Insert the thermocouple leads into the right bank of terminals. The yellow lead goes into Y1 and the red lead goes into R1. 

    Take the right-side Stepstruder cable and plug it into the A-Stepper port on the MightyBoard. Don’t forget to orient the teeth properly! 

     

    Congratulations! You have completed Body Stage 3.


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