MakerBot Support Forum/Official MakerBot/Fixes for Common MakerBot Issues
How to stop your prints from curling up off the platform
Brian Stamile
posted this on June 08, 2012 10:47
There are five things that can be done to solve this issue, and have no fear if done correctly they always work!
1. Increasing the HBP temperature in the gcode should help a lot up it to 110C and then 115C if 110 doesn't do the trick. To do this, after generating your gcode in RepG. Click on the on the gcode tab next to the model tab just above the picture of your model. Then find the line about 10-20 rows from the top that says M109 S100 (set HBP temperature). Then change the S100 to S110 or S115, then build your model.
2. Move your platform closer to the nozzle:
Begin a print such as the 20mm calibration cube without using a raft. And while the the first layer is being printed, adjust the 4 thumb screws beneath the build surface by turning them counterclockwise slowly, while keeping an eye on the filament being laid down. Raise the plate up until the first layer is being schmeared in a nice flat line across the build surface, it should not be laid down as a cylinder, it should be flat. You also may have to stop the print and rebuild it and adjust it again, until that first layer is nice and flat. If you raise the platform too much, then it will most likely stop extruding, so it has to be as close as possible the surface without touching it. Doing this while printing makes it much easier. And be sure not to touch the build surface while doing this because it is hot!
3. Remove all bubbles from your kapton.
4. Clean off your build surface with a little acetone from time to time.
5. Print in a location that is not drafty, or add walls to the side and/or front of your bot to reduce draft.
And don't forget, if you still have trouble send an email to support@makerbot.com and we'll help you get things printing like a pro!
Comments
Thanks for the tips-- I've ended up following all of these one by one but it would've saved a lot of time and plastic if I'd seen this post in the first place! I was especially surprised what a difference number 5 made; it also gave me a reason to make a sweet, sweet door for the front of my Replicator.
I have to say, though, that I still get curling, particularly if I try to print something with a large footprint using PLA. The problem with PLA is it stays very flexible when it's hot, and the strain of the cooling layers above will make models curl off the platform even if they're completely stuck down initially. That is, I can have a model with a perfect glossy base which still curls up.
I've been experimenting with letting the HBP cool down during the build, but so far I haven't had much success.
Any tips for replicator 2 users on this issue?
When the rear retaining clip for my removable build plate broke on my Replicator 2... I decided to test other materials to print on since the "optimised for PLA" build plate simply not doing the job.
After trying numerous materials including glass and several types of wood, I found that I had the best results printing onto a 5mm piece of bamboo mounted directly onto the plastic leveling plate.
The bamboo allows the print to stick to the surface whilst printing and once cooled I am able to remove the print very easily. Although not 100% level, I have been able to do prints using the full print bed and have not had any of the curling/warping problems that I used to constantly have - Highly recommended material!