OK, I'll take a brief stab at this.  Out of the box, no.  The Thing-O-Matic requires a plastic filament feed stock and I don't see how such a feedstock could be made out of wax.  It just might be possible to modify a TOM to accept heated liquid wax, but it would require something completely different than a plastruder.  You would need something more along the lines of a frostruder that was heated to keep the wax liquid.

Another issue would be the cure time of the wax.  It would need to cool and solidify almost instantly when it come out of the print head.  Certainly a heated build platform seems like a bad idea for wax.

OK, first of all, which wax (there are 3 kinds: for candle making or casting beeswax or paraffin<US usage only>, a leftover when oil is distilled (cracked) into various products, from natural gas to heating oil for big buildings; the third - waxes derived directly from plants, like carnuba auto/household wax, costs a fortune, has way too low a melting point, and way too high a price <other examples include "coconut oil" a soft solid until it hits 77 degrees F when it becomes great for massage and other skin lubrication>)

Bee's wax is SOFTER than paraffin but has a much higher melting point - in theory, it could be ground up and rammed into an extruder rebuilt with a cylinder, and sent through a specialty extra-extra small nozzle, anywhere from  1 or 2x  negative 10, figure .00004 mm hole at smallest,  far smaller than available here, or anywhere else then hit, with an even blast of air (think of a torus with a split on an inside ring and as many nipples on the outside as it takes to even the flow of air from a compressor, I think 8 would work. Temperature of the local environment, both for melting and dispensing is critical.

Paraffin could be handled the same way, but at cooler settings. BOTH have a very nasty habit of bursting into a bad, quick-spreading flame that tends to spit out and stick to things, like skin, While the last problem is common to just about any of the plastics we could use, the plastics have a MUCH longer spread between softening, melting and flash points.

You CAN use ABS, with its relatively high heat deforming/damage oint as a block mold, to build molds and use paraffin or bee's wax (price going ballistic due to Colony Death Syndrome virus) keep the mold as cool as possible, though, placing it on a block of aluminum larger than the mold, kept in the freezer between uses. Or make a very inexpensive and crude casting injector of the type used in lost wax molding.

About the only power tools I can think of that might work on wax would be applying Dremels and the like, or a very slow xyza machine tool to a cooled block of (half plastic) "jeweler's wax" used to carve the molds that go into plaster of Paris for lost-wax casting, if you must make many wax reproductions. It just isn't worth it.

I can only assume, that you would like to be able to do lost-wax casting. Some form of hard jewelers wax or some other form of replacement medium. I too would love to see a product with a much lower melting point for similar endeavors.

Trick would be the feed, and head temperature conditions (previously mentioned above). So from here becomes the search for materials that can fit the profile. 

I am also curious to see something that has an achievable melting point, but cures to a much higher melting point.

Wumpus

As for the lost-wax casting, then PLA has been used by others with success (and that is in the store on "normal" reels or avaliable from other sources that works with a printruder/stepstruder). For instance check out http://reprap.org/wiki/Casting/Pewter

As for harder waxes ... http://unfoldfab.blogspot.com/ have tried out printing with clay, but I think that cures quicker than wax would do, but I have not tried.

True clays are suspensions of very very small particles of silt (ground up sand) in water - and do not *cure* at all, rather, the water evaporates - this does not include Filo, Play-Doh, or Plasticine. With extensive experience with all of theabove, I would have to say NO to clay, Don't Bother with Filo, ABS is better and cheaper, Play-Doh - which has changed formula since its original wall-paper-paste base is out unless you can "print" with bread dough, AND DON'T EVEN THINK IT UNLESS YOU WANT TO GET OUT MICROBRUSHES AND DENTAL SPLUDGERS AND BUY A NEW NOZZLE OUT OF FRUSTRATION!. Plastecine does NOT harden. Plaster of Paris cures, but it is a long-term exothermic reaction, and not suited unless goal is sandcastle after many a wave hit and a new nozzle.. Stick to the plastics. David, into casting and materials used, among other things. <btw> THERE MAY be some low-temp alloys with a MP higher than Wood's Metal <@ 75 dF> but lower than solders <300-800dF>. MOST will plate or stick to a nozzle even without a flux (if both are clean) and it will be useless it is taken out, heated, and brushed and spludged. I recommend against it/ though the possibility of a low-temp brass-affilic alloy available in the proper gauge is intriguing. Note, I didn't say "desirable"... don't let me discourage you from that one, contact Kester solder corp for more info, Hang By Your Thumbs and Write If You Get it to Work..

Speaking of sticky plastics, I am wondering if anybody has had success with anything flexible, say about the consistency of a Barbie(tm)(c) leg.-Jen, into dolls among other things.

@Jonus Thanks for the information. I was worried about the PLA fouling the metal., so I will check it out.

@Jen The attempt is to print a material that will cure, or fire to a tolerance for small scale injection molding. I will do better to make gypsum reprap. But, I know this can be done. I like the Idea of doll arms and legs printed. I think I would still default to making a mold. I am gonna play with the idea a while. Intriguing.

Bryon - I'd STILL use multiple ABS molds, fill with casting wax, open up, clean& embed. BUT there IS one other thing you might try: There is a specialty jeweler's PLASTIC (not wax) which is sold in standard ring shapes&sizes, etc. the idea is that you DON'T keep a large stock in precious metal, but fit/alter a plastic mold, burn it out then cast ala lost wax. I have NO details on the polymer other than it exists <btw to everyone> If you want the best mini-tools, first try dental, then jeweler supply houses. Large prices for ULTRA quality (we're not talking Pakistani pseudo surgical tools, but the Real Thing - dentists and surgeons wear the stuff out (when it comes to people tolerances) jeweler supply houses (check the phone book for Sansom St. Philadelphia or 47th St. NY on E. Coast... These guys will sell the casting plastic but NOT in nice 1.75mm rolls.

<btw> all this is about injection molding polymers and NOT metals, unless lost-wax variation is used. There are molding compounds available that will allow molding of LOW-TEMP brass/bronze/Britannia-pewter/potmetals, but they are vulcanized stuff available from jewelery supply folks.

-bout all I've got on limited info

I have been investigating dental casting companies that sell rolls of 3mm sprue wax which is very hard and has a melting temp of about 230ºF or around 105ºC. I don't know if these waxes would clog up the extruder nozzle or not. Just thinking out loud so to speak.

Dental wax = jeweler's wax. See comments above. It is meant to be CARVED and the sprues used for the gates and vents in the final molds used for the lost-wax castings - if you don't understand, get a book on advanced jewelry tech from library for full info.

Try for low-temp-melt jeweler's casting PLASTIC but I don't think it it is available in anything except pre-shaped ring settings..

If you still want to go ahead with this wax madness, try jeweler's wax "wire" which might even be available down to 1.75mm in 1-meter lengths.

I was curious and googled around a bit. There are "3D wax printers" that produce "wax" models, like http://www.solid-scape.com/solidscape-3d-printers. They appear to be sold for jewelers and dentists. From reading the web site, it's not clear that it's actually wax, except as a support material, as they describe the printers as "wax printers" but the material as '"wax-like" patterns for lost-wax casting/investment casting and mold making applications'. I also found (3D Systems) http://printin3d.com/3d-printers/projet-cpx-3000-3d-wax-pattern-pri..., which uses "RealWax", which I would guess would be a marketing term invented to describe something that is not real wax. But it might be interesting to call them up to find out. If it's really wax, I wonder if perhaps they're doing something other than melting and depositing it (which would be very tricky with wax). I wonder if perhaps they're spitting little chunks of solid was from a print head? Whatever they're doing, the resolutions are pretty amazing, at least for the SolidScape wax printers - you can clearly produce commercial quality jewelry with them.